Rupert Hale
The Three Lapel Styles at a Glance
Walk into any good menswear shop and you will see three lapel shapes looking back at you. The notch lapel has a small V-shaped indentation where the collar meets the jacket, and it is the most common choice for business suits. The peak lapel points upwards towards the shoulders, adding a touch of drama and formality. The shawl lapel is a smooth, continuous curve with no notch or peak at all, almost always reserved for evening wear. Each one flatters a different build and suits a different occasion, so choosing well means thinking about both your proportions and where you plan to wear the suit.
Notch Lapels — The Reliable Everyday Choice
For most men, the notch lapel is the safest and most versatile option. It works beautifully on single-breasted suits for the office, weddings, and smart dinners. If you have a broader chest or heavier build, a notch lapel with a moderate width — roughly 8.5 to 9.5 centimetres at its widest point — keeps everything in proportion. Avoid very narrow lapels if your shoulders are wide, as they can make your chest look overly bulky. Equally, if you are slim, a slightly narrower notch lapel of around 7.5 to 8.5 centimetres will look balanced without overwhelming your frame. The classic notch is forgiving, understated, and endlessly practical.
Peak Lapels — Adding Presence and Shoulder Width
Peak lapels are your friend if you are tall, lean, or narrow-shouldered. The upward-pointing peaks draw the eye outwards, creating the illusion of a broader chest and stronger shoulders. They are a natural match for double-breasted suits, where the extra fabric across the chest already adds bulk. For a single-breasted suit, a peak lapel can look sharp and confident for formal business or evening events. If you are shorter, choose a peak lapel that is not too wide — around 8 to 9 centimetres — so it does not overpower your frame. If you are heavy-set, a peak lapel can work, but keep the width moderate and the jacket cleanly tailored; overly wide peaks will add unwanted visual weight.
Shawl Lapels — Elegance for Evening and Lean Builds
The shawl lapel is the most formal of the three, traditionally found on dinner jackets and tuxedos. Its smooth, curved line softens angular features and flatters lean, tall builds particularly well. If you are slim and want to look elegant without adding bulk, a shawl collar in a dark fabric is hard to beat. Shorter men can wear a shawl lapel too, provided the width is restrained — around 7.5 to 8.5 centimetres. Avoid a very wide shawl if you are broad-shouldered, as it can make your upper body look rounded. This lapel is not for the office; save it for black-tie events, formal evenings, and occasions where a little old-fashioned glamour is welcome.
Matching Lapel to Your Proportions
Use this quick guide to balance your build:
- Broad shoulders or heavy chest: Choose a notch lapel or a narrow peak. Keep width moderate — around 8.5 to 9.5 centimetres. Avoid skinny lapels and very wide shawl collars.
- Narrow shoulders or slim frame: A peak lapel is your best ally, as it adds width. A notch lapel also works if you choose a slightly wider width, around 9 to 10 centimetres.
- Tall and lean: Peak lapels and shawl lapels both flatter you. You can carry a slightly wider lapel — up to 10.5 centimetres — without looking top-heavy.
- Shorter build: Stick to notch or a neat peak lapel. Avoid very wide lapels, which shorten the torso. A 7.5 to 8.5 centimetre width is usually ideal.
- Heavy-set: A clean notch lapel with a moderate width is the most slimming. Peak lapels can work if they are not too wide, but shawl lapels often look best reserved for evening wear.
Occasion, Fabric, and Finishing Touches
The lapel you choose should also reflect the formality of the occasion. Notch lapels are perfect for business suits, country weddings, and smart-casual tailoring. Peak lapels suit formal business, city weddings, and double-breasted suits. Shawl lapels belong almost exclusively to black-tie evening wear. Consider the fabric too: a shiny peak lapel in a dark cloth looks wonderfully formal, while a matte notch lapel in a textured wool is more relaxed. Lapel width should also relate to your tie width — a slim tie with a wide lapel looks unbalanced. Finally, pay attention to the button stance and the roll of the lapel; a well-pressed, gently rolling lapel will always look more elegant than a flat, stiff one. When in doubt, remember that the best lapel is the one that makes you feel comfortable, confident, and correctly dressed for the moment.
