Charlotte Ashworth
Good leather shoes are one of the few possessions that genuinely improve with age. A well-made pair of brogues or Oxfords, looked after properly, will soften, take on a rich patina, and mould itself to your feet over years of wear. But British weather is not kind to leather. Rain, grit, road salt and mud will all take their toll on a neglected pair, and the damage is often done long before you notice it.
The good news is that shoe care is neither expensive nor time-consuming. A few minutes each week, plus a couple of seasonal jobs, will keep your shoes looking smart and save you a fortune in replacements.
Why British Weather Is So Hard on Leather
Leather is skin, and like skin it needs oils and fats to stay supple. Water is the enemy of those oils. Every soaking strips a little moisture from the hide, and as the leather dries out it becomes brittle, dull and prone to cracking along the creases over the toes. Repeated wet and dry cycles are worse than a single soaking, which is exactly what a typical British winter delivers.
Road salt is equally destructive. Spread generously on pavements and roads from November onwards, it is alkaline and corrosive, and it dries into chalky white tidemarks that stain the leather if left. Mud, meanwhile, holds moisture against the surface and its grit works into the grain and stitching like sandpaper. Add grit scattered on icy pavements and the odd puddle of standing water, and your shoes are under daily attack.
The Daily Habit: Brush, Wipe and Rest
Most shoe care takes less time than making a pot of tea. Do it as a matter of routine rather than a weekend chore, and the leather will thank you.
- Brush your shoes with a horsehair brush when you take them off. This lifts dust and grit before it works into the creases, where it does the most damage.
- Wipe the uppers with a barely damp cloth if they are muddy. Never soak them, and never scrub hard at wet leather.
- Insert unvarnished cedar shoe trees while the shoes are still warm. They hold the shape and draw out moisture from the inside.
- Let your shoes rest for a full day between wears. Rotating two or three pairs means each has twenty-four hours to dry properly, which no amount of polish can substitute for.
Drying Wet Shoes the Right Way
This is where most good shoes are ruined. Never dry leather on a radiator, in front of a fire, or in an airing cupboard. Direct heat dries the leather far too quickly, drawing out the natural oils and causing the fibres to contract and crack. It can also warp the soles and loosen the welt stitching.
Instead, remove the laces, open the shoe as wide as it will go, and stuff the inside with crumpled newspaper. Plain newsprint is ideal; avoid glossy magazines, which do not absorb moisture. Change the paper whenever it feels damp, which in a soaking shoe may mean twice in the first few hours.
Leave the shoes at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, until they are completely dry. That is usually at least twenty-four hours, and forty-eight for a thorough soaking. Only once they are dry should you insert shoe trees and think about polish. Wearing damp shoes is never worth it: the leather stretches, the shape goes, and the smell lingers.
Cleaning, Conditioning and Polishing
Once dry, brush off any dried mud with a stiff brush. For heavy soiling, use saddle soap sparingly on a damp cloth, working up a light lather and wiping it away. Used too often, saddle soap will dry the leather, so save it for genuine dirt.
Road salt needs particular attention. Mix one part white vinegar with three parts water, dab it onto the stains with a cloth, and let the shoes dry naturally. Do not rub aggressively; the aim is to neutralise the salt, not scrub it in.
Next comes conditioning. Apply a small amount of cream conditioner with your fingers or a cloth, working it into the creases in circular motions. Leave it for twenty minutes, then buff off the excess with a brush. Cream polish nourishes and restores colour, while a thin coat of wax polish over the top adds shine and a useful barrier against rain. Build wax up gradually on the toe caps and heels rather than slathering it on everywhere, where it will simply crack.
Preparing for the Worst of the Weather
Before the first proper cold snap, give every pair a thorough clean, condition and polish. That base layer of wax is your best everyday defence against showers.
For country boots and heavy-grained leather, a traditional dubbin or a dedicated waterproofing treatment will keep the wet out. Be aware that dubbin darkens leather considerably, so keep it away from fine calfskin and polished city shoes. It is also possible to over-treat leather: too much product clogs the pores and traps moisture inside, which is worse than a little rain. A modest application once a season is plenty.
Storing Your Shoes Well
Where your shoes live matters as much as how you treat them. Damp porches, garages and cellars will undo a week of good work, encouraging mould and rotting stitching. A dry, airy cupboard or wardrobe is ideal.
- Keep cedar shoe trees in every pair, even those you are not wearing this week.
- Store shoes in cotton dust bags rather than plastic, which traps moisture against the leather.
- Give boots and shoes a quick brush and a wipe before putting them away for the season, plus a light condition.
- Check soles and heels regularly, and take them to a cobbler at the first sign of wear. A small repair now is far cheaper than a rebuild later.
Looked after this way, a good pair of leather shoes will serve you for a decade or more, growing more comfortable and more handsome with every year. It is one of the quiet pleasures of dressing well, and it costs little more than a little patience and a tin of polish.
